月度归档:2019年06月

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OM Factory Breitling Superocean Asia 2824 Black Satin Dial Green Bezel Automatic 42mm Watch

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Tudor Watches’ History

Within the high fashion world, it is rather common for big brand names to offer secondary lines (aka diffusion lines) with more accessible price points and a younger vibe. It’s a way to market designer wares to a mass audience without tarnishing the appeal of the signature line. Think Giorgio Armani’s Emporio Armani, Ralph Lauren’s Polo Ralph Lauren, or Paul Smith’s PS by Paul Smith.

Tudor Watches

This approach is not common in the luxury watch world (although, frankly, it should be), yet there is one very notable example: Rolex’s Tudor. In fact, Rolex’s founder, Hans Wilsdorf was very explicit that the purpose of the Tudor watch company was about “making a watch that our agents could sell at a more modest price than our Rolex watches, and yet one that would attain the standard of dependability for which Rolex is famous.” Textbook diffusion line strategy.

If you follow the luxury watch industry at all, you will have no doubt noticed that Tudor watches are having a moment, especially in the U.S. market. But it wasn’t always this way. Let’s look back at the history of Tudor watches to uncover its origins, evolution, and current standing.

The Early Years Of Tudor Watches

In 1926, Swiss watchmaker Veuve de Philippe Hüther (which means “Widow of Philippe Hüther” since the wife took over after her husband died) trademarked the name “The Tudor” and Hans Wilsdorf struck a deal for the exclusive rights to the name.

Tudor Watches

By 1932, the first Tudor signed watches made their appearance and were sent to the Australian market. The watches were rectangular in shape with beveled edges. Some pieces even included the Rolex name along with Tudor on the dial to make the association clear. Some dials also included the name “Catanach’s” – one of Australia’s oldest jewelers and a retailer of Tudor watches during that time.

Encouraged by the brand’s potential, Hans Wilsdorf acquired “The Tudor” name from Veuve de Philippe Hüther in 1936. And as a marketing man, he added the famed Tudor Rose inside a shield to the logo (the traditional floral symbol of England derived from the emblem of the Royal House of Tudor) to spruce things up.

Tudor Watches

After WWII, Hans Wilsdorf created the “Montres TUDOR S.A.” company in 1946, with the understanding that Rolex would play a big part in the company’s manufacturing and distribution. This relationship between the two brands explains the parallels between the watches Rolex and Tudor released throughout their respective histories.

Tudor Watches

Tudor Gains Momentum In The Mid-20th-Century

Under the new Montres Tudor banner and armed with a refreshed rose logo sansshield, the company released a slew of new watch models starting in the mid-20th Century. The waterproof and automatic Tudor Oyster Prince made its debut in 1952, and the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner dive watch joined the catalog in 1955. The Tudor Advisor alarm watch and ultra-slim Tudor Oysterthin soon followed in 1957.

Tudor Watches

The sixties and seventies saw the arrival of the Tudor Oyster Prince Ranger (1967), the Oyster Prince Date+Day (1969), the manual Tudor Oysterdate chronograph (1970), and the self-winding Tudor Oysterdate “Automatic Chrono Time” chronographs (1976). It’s also important to note that in 1969, Tudor redesigned the face of the Oyster Prince Submariner dive watches to include large square-shaped luminous hour markers and matching square-tipped hour hands – these specific Tudor hands are collectively known as “Snowflake hands” today.

Tudor Watches

When Tudor celebrated its 50th anniversary in 1996, the company decided it was high time to shed Rolex signed components (such as cases, winding crowns, and bracelets) in favor of Tudor branded ones. The 1980s, 1990s, and 2000s saw Tudor add more models to its already established collections. However, perhaps due to less-than stellar sales and brand equity, sometime in the late 1990s/early 2000s, Tudor watches stopped being sold in the American (and other) markets.

Tudor Watches

The Rebirth Of Tudor Watches

Refreshed, rebranded, and refocused, Tudor announced its return to U.S. shores in 2013 – and what a return it has been! As they say, timing is everything, and Tudor’s value-driven proposition (while still having the illustrious Rolex name attached to it) fits perfectly into today’s booming watch enthusiast culture.

The majority of modern Tudor watches draw design cues from their archives but have been updated with larger cases, in-house movements, and contemporary materials. They take the best parts of Tudor’s history and repackage them for the modern watch fan at prices that are not cheap per se, but certainly reachable.

Tudor Watches

The most popular collections of the current Tudor lineup include the Black Bay, the Pelagos, the North Flag, and the Heritage. The Black Bay flaunts its vintage dive watch vibes more overtly, while the Pelagos leans more towards modern dive watch designs. The modern North Flag adventurer’s watch takes its name from the 1952 British North Greenland Expedition where 25 men were issued Oyster Prince watches; however it its design comes from vintage Tudor Ranger II watches. And as its name implies, the Heritage collection houses faithful reissues of vintage Tudor timepieces such as the Heritage Chrono, the Heritage Ranger, and the Heritage Advisor.

We love a good comeback story and Tudor’s tale is as good as any.

Tudor Watches

Replica Breitling Chronomat – B01 Chronograph 44

Replica Breitling presented a fresh model in the collection Chronomat – B01 Chronograph 44. The watch is made in the traditional style for the model Chronomat with the use of satin finish of the case, the familiar dial design and the famous Caliber replica Breitling B01.

While neither the size nor the mechanism of the Chronomat has changed, the satin case and the new color dial resolution are distinctive features for the novelty among other models of the Chronomat model.

The novelty of the Chronomat B01 Chronograph 44 is presented in two color solutions of the dial. Blue with black replica Breitling is called “Blackeye blue”, and gray with black is “Blackeye gray”. Both versions come with a steel Pilot bracelet and look really good. Powerful and large men’s watches have a body size of 44 x 17 mm.

Specifications replica Breitling Chronomat B01 Chronograph 44 Reference
AB0115101F1A1 (gray)
AB0115101C1A1 (blue)
Case 44 x 16.95 mm, stainless steel, water resistance 500 meters
Dial Gray or blue with contrast sub-dials, overlaid hourly indices, luminous hands and markers
Bracelet Stainless steel
Mechanism Automatic, Caliber replica Breitling watches Caliber 01, power reserve 70 hours, functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph. The balance frequency is 28 800 pc / h, 47 gems, the chronometer COSC

What’s the Rolex Super Case?

In the discussion of modern Rolex sports watches, the term “super case” can come up when describing specific models. But what exactly is a Rolex super case and how does it differ from other Rolex watch cases? Read on to find out all the details.

Rolex Introduced The Super Case On The GMT-Master II In 2005

In 2005, Rolex introduced a brand new GMT-Master II watch in the form of the yellow gold GMT-Master II ref. 116718. This new-generation of GMT brought about a whole host of changes to Rolex’s iconic pilot’s watch collection. Some of these changes included Rolex’s first Cerachrom ceramic bezel, Rolex’s first GMT “maxi dial” with larger hour markers and broader Mercedes-style hands, and Rolex’s first “super case.”

Super Case

Although the case size of the then-new GMT-Master II ref. 116718 measured 40mm like its predecessors, the case silhouette was much broader thanks to fatter lugs, a wider bezel, and a thicker overall profile. Therefore, this type of case is referred to as the Rolex “super case” to differentiate it from older Oyster Professional cases that have the same diameter measurement but a less bulky build.

Soon after the launch of the yellow gold version of the new GMT-Master II, Rolex introduced other material options such as the two-tone GMT-Master II ref. 116713, the white gold GMT-Master II ref. 116719, and the stainless steel GMT-Master II ref. 116710. Regardless of the different materials used in their construction, all of these models sport the Rolex super case.

Super Case

Rolex Rolled Out The Super Case To The Submariner In 2008

In 2008, Rolex presented the newest generation of their Submariner dive watch. There were two models initially released, both gold: the white gold Submariner ref. 116619 and the yellow gold Submariner ref. 116618.

Yet again, these two watches retained the official 40mm case size of older Submariner references. However, just like the new GMT-Master II models, the new Submariner watches featured beefier super cases – along with Cerachrom ceramic bezels and maxi dials. The following year, the two-tone Submariner ref. 116613 joined the catalog, followed by the stainless steel Submariner ref. 116610 a year later.

Super Case

Rolex Super Case Vs. Rolex Classic Case

Rolex’s approach to the super case design was a way for the company to answer the trend for larger men’s watches without having to increase the official measurements over that 40mm size the brand favors so much.

If you hold a GMT-Master II (or Submariner) with a classic case next to a GMT-Master II (or Submariner) with a super case, the differences are immediately evident. As expected, there are those who love the new modern design of the super case, while others prefer the more restrained and traditional form of the classic case.

Which one do you prefer? Classic or Super? Leave us your thoughts in the comment section below.

Super Case

When is the time Rolex use sapphire crystal glass?

If you compare most vintage Rolex watches with their modern counterparts, they are in fact remarkably similar in their overall design and style. Making incremental changes rather than applying massive overhauls is the Rolex way. Over the years, many of the changes on Rolex watches have related to material updates: luminous substances, metal types, ceramic components, and so on.

One particular important update that took place a few decades ago was the switch from acrylic crystal to modern scratch-resistant sapphire crystal as a means to protect the dials and hands. But when exactly did Rolex transition to sapphire crystals? It’s not exactly a straightforward answer, so let’s find out.Sapphire Crystal

Rolex First Used Sapphire Crystal In 1970

The very first Rolex model to use a sapphire crystal instead of an acrylic crystal was the Rolex ref. 5100 introduced in 1970. For those of you who may not know, the Rolex 5100 was the brand’s first quartz-powered watch, which ran on the Beta 21 movement. The Beta 21 was developed by the Centre Electronique Horologer (CEH) – a consortium of around 20 Swiss watch brands tasked to make a reliable Swiss-made quartz movement.

Sapphire Crystal

Production of the reference 5100 was limited to just 1,000 pieces – all made from solid 18-karat gold; however sapphire crystal appeared yet again in the Rolex catalog in the form of the Rolex Date ref. 1530 in 1975, followed by the then-new Oysterquartz Datejust and Oysterquartz Day-Date models in 1977. Rolex then slowly rolled-out sapphire crystals to other collections, first starting with their Day-Date “President” collection.Sapphire Crystal

Sapphire Crystal On Rolex Sports Watches

The Sea-Dweller 16660 was the first Rolex sports watch to receive a sapphire crystal in 1978. Rolex then began using sapphire crystals in the Submariner lineup starting with the Submariner Date ref. 16800 in 1979 and the no-date Submariner ref. 14060 in 1990.

The debut GMT-Master II reference (the GMT-Master II ref. 16760 from 1983) came fitted with a sapphire crystal, and shortly thereafter, Rolex transitioned the normal GMT-Master to a sapphire crystal in 1988, with the introduction of GMT-Master ref. 16700 in 1988.

Sapphire Crystal

Rolex Sapphire Crystal Use By Model

Below you’ll find a list detailing the approximate years of when Rolex rolled out sapphire crystals across their different watch collections:

1970 – QUARTZ 5100

1975 – DATE 1530

1977 – OYSTERQUARTZ

1978 – DAY-DATE 18038

1978 – SEA-DWELLER 16660

1979 – SUBMARINER DATE 16800

1983 – GMT-MASTER II 16760

1985 – EXPLORER II 16550

1988 – DATEJUST 16200

1988 – GMT-MASTER 16700

1989 – EXPLORER 14270

1989 – AIR-KING 14000

1990 – SUBMARINER 14060

Sapphire Crystal

Swiss Replica Vacheron Constantin On Sale – PerfectArw Online Store

Vacheron Constantin replica watches is a luxury Swiss manufacture of prestige watches and a brand of the Richemont group. This brand along with Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, is sometimes claimed to be one of the “holy trinity” of Swiss watchmakers.

The Vacheron Constantin swiss replica watches produces about 20,000 timepieces per year. In 2003 Vacheron Constantin introduced a new sports line called Overseas, and a collection called Egerie, the first to include watches for women.  In 2015, during the Manufacture’s 260th Anniversary year, Vacheron Constantin replica watch revealed the world’s most complicated mechanical watch, named reference 57260.  Every Vacheron Constantin replica watch is elegant, classic and luxury, it seems like this brand just work for the royal person. A significant feature is its buckle, which is 18K yellow gold pin and very pretty.

Perfect Replica Swiss Grade Vacheron Constantin Overseas 316L Rose Gold Case Blue Dial 36mm Women’s Watch

Price: $309.95

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Perfect Replica Swiss Grade Vacheron Constantin Overseas 316L Rose Gold Case Salmon Dial 36mm Women’s Watch

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Perfect Replica Swiss Grade Vacheron Constantin Overseas Diamond Bezel Salmon Dial 36mm Women’s Watch

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TW Factory Replica Swiss Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Day-Date Black Dial 40mm Automatic Men’s Watch

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TW Factory Replica Swiss Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Day-Date Blue Dial 40mm Automatic Men’s Watch

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TW Factory Replica Swiss Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Day-Date Gray Dial 40mm Automatic Men’s Watch

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VC Factory Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 316L Rose Gold Diamond Case White Moonphase Dial 32mm Women’s Watch

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VC Factory Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 316L Stainless Steel Diamond Case Blue Leather Strap 32mm Women’s Watch

Price: $349.95

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4 Facts About The Rolex Oysterquartz That Will Surprise You!

Yes, even Rolex joined the quartz movement

Rolex may be known for their precise and reliable mechanical movements, yet there was a time when the Swiss watchmaking company got on board with the quartz craze during what is now referred to as the “quartz crisis” era.

In the early 1970s and 1980s, the trend in the watchmaking business was towards less expensive and more precise quartz calibers rather than more intricate mechanical movements. It was referred to as a crisis because it almost toppled the entire Swiss watchmaking industry with the majority of quartz watches coming out of Japan and the United States. Although there was widespread hesitation to join the quartz bandwagon among Swiss watch manufactures at the time, there were a few top watch brands, including Rolex that introduced their own quartz watches. Here we take a closer look at the development and evolution of the Rolex Oysterquartz.Rolex Oysterquartz 17013Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust 17013

1. The Precursor To The Oysterquartz Was The Rolex Date 5100

The first Rolex quartz watch was the limited-series Date 5100 powered by the Beta 21 movement. The development of the Beta 21 was the result of the uniting of more than 20 Swiss watch brands, including Rolex, to form the Centre Electronique Horloger whose mission was to create electronic watch movements. The Beta 21 was used among numerous Swiss watch brands to equip their quartz watches.Rolex OysterquartzRolex Date 1500 Quartz (Image: Rolex Encyclopedia)

Rolex only produced 1,000 pieces of the Date 5100 and it quickly sold out. Not only was the quartz movement a first for Rolex, but the design of the Date 5100 was also unique. Fashioned entirely from 18k yellow gold, the Date 5100 featured a distinct integrated case and bracelet that was considered very fashionable and modern during its era.

Despite the success of the Date 5100, Rolex did not believe that it was in their best interest to offer watches that were equipped with the same movements as so many other companies. Therefore, they ceased to be a part of the Centre Electronique Horloger and began the development of their own quartz movement.

2. It Took Five Years To Complete The Oysterquartz Movement

Beginning in 1972, Rolex took five years to conceptualize, design, develop, and test their in-house quartz movement. In 1977 the brand introduced the 5035 quartz caliber for the Datejust and the 5055 quartz caliber for the Date-Date Oysterquartz models. The Rolex Oysterquartz movements included 11 jewels and a 32khz oscillator and the in-house calibers were hailed as modern marvels when launched.

Rolex Oysterquartz

Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust 17000

3. The Rolex Oysterquartz Was In Production For 25 Years

During its 25-year manufacturing run, the Rolex Oysterquartz movements were only ever used in the Datejust and Day-Date models. The Oysterquartz Datejust watches were offered in stainless steel (reference 17000), Rolesor stainless steel and yellow gold (reference 17013) and Rolesor stainless steel and white gold (reference 17014). Of course, the Day-Date President models were crafted full gold with an option of yellow gold (reference 19018) and white gold (reference 19019). Rolex also unveiled some special Oysterquartz versions with jewels and interesting design elements. Of particular interest, is this Day-Date Oysterquartz ref. 19028 with pyramid design details on the bezel, bracelet, and hour-markers.Rolex OysterquartzRolex Oysterquartz Day-Date 19028 “Pyramid”

4. Less Than 25,000 Oysterquartz Watches Were Ever Produced

Although produced for 25 years, it’s estimated that fewer than 25,000 Oysterquartz models were ever created. In the realm of Rolex manufacturing, that is a low number, making the Oysterquartz an uncommon Rolex watch. 2001 was the final time that Rolex applied for certification from COSC for their quartz movements and certain Oysterquartz models remained in the brand’s catalog until 2003.

Rolex Oysterquartz

Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date 19018

The Rolex watches that are equipped with their mechanical movements may be more coveted and famous, however, the Oysterquartz represents a historically significant time during the brand’s history, as well as the Swiss luxury watch industry at large. It illustrates Rolex’s ability to not only keep up with the current watch trends but also shows how they take it and make it completely their own.Rolex Oysterquartz Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust 17013

Rolex Root Beer Bezel

Root beer reminds us of simpler times – days when you poured your drink over ice cream instead of ice cubes. But we had to grow up sometime, and thankfully, we’ve been treated with something just as sweet, the root beer bezel.

Now, it may not be quite as satisfying as the drink of your childhood, but it’s undoubtedly a fun way to indulge in your luxury watch obsession. However, I think it goes without saying that not everyone agrees. Many Rolex enthusiasts find it hard to wrap their head around the idea of brown creeping up any further than the leather strap. But, for those who (will admit they) love the root beer bezel, this watch is a real treat.root beer bezel

A Very Groovy History

It’s fitting that we were first introduced to the root beer bezel in the 1970’s – it just feels vintage and oozes with funk, doesn’t it? While it’s cool, it’s also surprising. Rolex isn’t known for putting themselves out there, so the root beer bezel is really one of those rare instances when the horlogerie decided to lean into the times and release something a bit off beat.

The GMT – a popular pilots watch since the 1950’s – had otherwise been a handsome but utilitarian timepiece. Then all of a sudden, we’re looking at the brown ref. 1675/3. It has a a gold bezel with brown and gold aluminum insert, a matching brown dial, and gold hour markers with a shape that lead to the ‘nipple dial’ title. The watch was a two-tone stainless yellow gold model, and you could choose a Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. The two-tone Rolex GMT-Master was also available with a more conservative black dial, but today the brown dial version is a bit more desirable in collectors eyes.

root beer bezel

You can’t blame Rolex customers of the 1970’s for falling in love with this watch, it was the color mood of the decade. It was lovingly called the root beer bezel, well, for obvious reasons. But then all of a sudden we saw it gaining new nicknames like “Tiger Eye” which was an effort to make it sound more elevated than trendy. Then Clint Eastwood got his hands on one and it was (un)officially the “Clint Eastwood” – he wore it in a number of his films, including his 1982 movie Firefox.

It’s a relatively hard to find watch. While the GMT Master ref. 1675 had quite a long production run, the ref. 1675/3 was always more limited and both are no longer in production. Prices for root beer GMT’s have significantly increased in recent years, which really shows the degree of value and desire for this watch out there.

root beer bezel

The Comeback Kid

When Rolex released their updated root beer bezel in 2018, I think it really reinvigorated collectors adoration for this unique timepiece. Of course, the new root beer bezel has been brought into the 21st century with some much-needed updates. The two-tone with yellow gold has been swapped out to stainless steel and Everosegold (which is totally on-trend), and the graduated ceramic bezel is black and brown instead of being half brown and half creamy gold.

Look closely and the Arabic numerals on the bezel are also Everose. The dial is black and the hour markers white, outlined in Everose and highly legible with lume. There are still the Mercedes hands, of course, but also craft from Everose and outfitted in lume. It looks really clean despite everything that it has going on.

root beer bezel

This is the kind of watch that makes you do a double take, as brown – not tan or taupe – is still an unlikely color to be featured in a watch. But the way it’s been integrated alongside the pitch-black dial and the warm Everose feels effortlessly stylish. Although, I have a feeling in a few decades these words may haunt me. Maybe watch writers of the future will speak about this watch like I do with the ref. 1675/3 – admiring it for its uniqueness but generally regarding it as an anomaly.

Either way, I do believe the release of the GMT Master II 126711CHNR was an awesome release in itself, but also a great piece that makes collectors go back to admire and possibly rethink the 1970’s predecessor. To avoid controversy I’d usually say don’t @ me – but do it. The Bob’s team and I want to know what you think of this unique and highly desirable Rolex.root beer bezel

Replica IWC Big Pilot’s Annual Calendar “Le Petit Prince”

Replica IWC Big Pilot’s Annual Calendar “Le Petit Prince” is great on the face. Its case has a diameter of 46 mm and a thickness of 15.5 mm. Sculpted in red 18K gold is in sharp contrast to the cool blue dial and the dark brown handmade strap of the Italian house Santoni. The clock is extremely user-friendly as it gathers the three dials in three consecutive windows at the top of the dial. Their layout is not at all accidental. It is incompatible with the US system of date, that is, the first month, the date and the last day – we must not forget that the founder of the F.A. Jones was an American. Two symmetrical auxiliary dials accommodate the small seconds (at 9) and the power reserve (at 3). The “aviation” temperament of the model is recalled by the large indexes, the easy-to-read Arabic numbers as well as the characteristic triangle with the two dots in the 12-lumens full-blown with SuperLuminova white coat.

Perfection continues in both the interior and the state-of-the-art clock mechanism. Thanks to the two barrels of the all-in-house auto calibrator 52850 at Schaffhausen, the new replica IWC Big Pilot’s Annual Calendar “Le Petit Prince” boasts a power reserve of seven full days. The mechanism is visible from the transparent back of the replica watches, which seals with sapphire crystal.What makes the replica watch special is the golden rotor that has the shape of the famous blooming asteroid and depicts the little prince standing on it. Based on Saint-Exupéry’s own design, the rotor is an important part of the sophisticated design and impresses with its satin and glossy finish.

Is the Omega Speedmaster the Next Rolex Daytona?

Omega’s Moonwatch Enters the Stratosphere” blared a recent headline in the New York Times. The accompanying article goes on to declare that “prices for the most sought-after vintage Speedmasters have taken a trip into orbit, fueled by a booming market for vintage watches and a cult following on social media.”

While this might not exactly seem like breaking news to longtime Speedmaster enthusiasts, the Times correctly noted that recent hype over the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 Moon landing – much of it emanating from Omega’s own PR department – has given some extra heat to the iconic watch, and helped lead to what many see as the inevitable maturing of the vintage Omega Speedmaster market.  Omega Speedmaster

A Maturing Market

The Speedmaster’s history is indeed among the most interesting and prestigious of any sports watch. While vintage Rolex Daytona prices have been astronomic for a number of years, the vintage Speedy market has been much slower off the mark.

Omega Speedmaster

That all changed last year, as the Times notes, when a first generation Speedmaster from 1958 sold for almost $410,000 at a Phillips sale in Geneva. Put that down to Aurel Bacs, the co-founder of Phillips’s international watch department and the man who famously sold Paul Newman’s personal Daytona for almost $17.8 million.

GQ recently called Bacs “the man who sparked the vintage watch boom,” and his preference for, and lucrative salesmanship of, watches with interesting and important provenance, heritage and original condition have indeed led to skyrocketing auction returns.Omega Speedmaster

Omega Speedmaster Prices

“The Speedmaster is a true icon and prices for the most coveted examples have been lagging behind for some time,” notes Bob’s Watches founder, Paul Altieri (also one of the world’s top watch collectors). “And with vintage Rolex prices skyrocketing, the market needs something else to focus on with room to create value. While $50,000 for a pedigreed Speedy might have seemed expensive just a few years ago, it now looks like a bargain. Those of us who had the foresight to start collecting early on are looking at a major return on our investment. But I’m not planning on selling any of my best pieces just yet.”
If you were one of the clairvoyant individuals who picked up the very best vintage Speedmaster references for five figures in years past, then allows us to express our admiration – and envy.Omega Speedmaster